"If you're nostalgic for a time when Napa Valley was planted to petite sirah; when it offered reds that were savory and spicy rather than sweet; when you could afford to buy a Napa Valley red with the kind of complex herbal notes and layered tannic detail that would juice up roast lamb; well, that time is now. Decant a bottle and think, for a moment, that you're in southwest France."