Best Buy! They’ve changed out logo and the historic sign that greets visitors to this Horse Heaven Hills winery — the largest in the Pacific Northwest — yet the quality remains unchanged. Investment in the barrel regimen of 16 months in 1/3 new oak offers up aromas of cocoa powder and rich chocolate behind boysenberry and blueberry. Inside is a profile of juicy purple fruit — blackberry and plum — backed with more chocolate and coffee. Its structure is one of pleasing balance with acidity and tannin that’s far from aggressive. Suggested fare includes beef tenderloin or a plate of pasta in puttanesca sauce.
