Swiss billionaire Thomas Schmidheiny launched this estate in 2000, settling on a barren plateau in Agrelo at 3,500 feet altitude. The winds here skate across the soil—a mix of alluvial deposits and sandy loam over gravel—whipping up small remolinos, little whirlwinds of dust. The winery claims these remolinos are critical to the quality of their wines, keeping the grapevines dry and free from disease after it rains. Credit also goes to Tomás Hughes, a Mendoza native who joined the winery as winemaker in 2014 after stints at Achaval Ferrer in the Uco Valley and with Daniel Pi at Trapiche. In 2017, Hughes turned out a floral, fresh malbec that sings with clarity. Lush with plummy flavors, it feels supple and energetic, the bright acidity impelling the wine forward. It stays lively and lifted, lasting on scents of wildflowers, herbs and fresh purple fruit.
